Granted, the $6K configuration we tested is overkill for most laptop users it’s nigh impossible for this kind of mobile muscle to fail too hard on our standard benchmarks. In terms of raw power, this notebook is tough to beat, and even if it runs out of battery when you’re on the go, it’s still heavy enough to fight crime with. Is the HP ZBook Fury 17 G8 the best workstation on the market? I suppose that depends on your budget and configuration, but if your pockets are deep enough for an Intel Xeon processor and Nvidia RTX A5000 graphics (boy howdy!), this is about as future-proof as laptops get right now. If you’re looking to get into video editing or some light to medium taxing games, this laptop is perfect for you. But the system also packs an overclockable Core i9 processor and pairs it with a discrete Nvidia GTX 1650 GPU, making for one beautiful beast. This also marks the first time the XPS 15 gets an OLED display, which is in itself monumental. Not only does it have the brightest 4K screen around, but it also totes some impressive battery life, so you won’t be making the one compromise that you typically would on most 4K laptops. If you’re looking for the best 4K laptop ever, that would be the Dell XPS 15. When (not if) 8K laptops arrive, we'll be ready for a whole new page for you. We determined which were the best 4K laptops by measuring the nits of brightness and the percentage of sRGB that their panels cover. If you or your kid have a wild imagination and need a fun and safe outlet for that, check out our DND tips page to get started on the world's best adventure game. However, keep in mind that 4K laptops typically don’t have the best battery life around, so there are some compromises you’ll have to make. And the best 4K laptops can double as video editing laptops and the best photo editing laptops as well. Hope that situation/question makes sense.There's a huge selection of the best 4K laptops, and you'll find these super-sharp displays on the best laptops you can buy, including the best 2-in-1 laptops and workstations. Or is this something I'll just have to do slowly.a little bit at a time with readjusting the cable/turnbuckle each time it gets tightened to it's maximum? My question is, is there anything else besides this method that someone could recommend to straigten out a tree like this? Perhaps, some kind of replacement for the metal fence post? A better anchor of sorts? Or even, a better solution than the turnbuckle method? The tree moved perhaps 1/2 inch back towards center. I've tightened the turnbuckle all the way, and the fence post is starting to really lean towards the tree.
I've placed a 7' metal fence post (buried perhaps 2 1/2'), the kind that's in the shape of a T and has bumps, or ribs on the one side (sorry, not sure what to call that), at an angle, and tied the tree up to it using 3/8" cable.with a turnbuckle in the middle. Nothing huge, but enough to start the tree leaning. The reason the tree is starting to lean is due to winds that I get in the area.
The trunk, at least the first 5 to 6 feet are relatively straight. Perhaps 8 to 12 inches off center line at the top. The issue I have is that this tree, which I want to keep, is starting to lean a bit. I've got a tree (not really sure what kind, it was planted when I moved in) in my front yard that is roughly 20 feet tall and maybe 7 to 8 feet in diameter. These are for low-pressure drip irrigation systems so pressure should not be much of an issue if any (although I seem to have plenty) and I have already tested flow at, if I remember correctly, 7GPM. Oh, yes, I'm not intending to have this "hard plumbed" (if there is such a phrase,) into my water supply, but to have the manifold(s) right close to the outlets and supplied from the faucet(s). Sounds like a word problem, doesn't it :D? Which is the best solution for my dilemma? I'm iffy on if it's advisable to run the low-voltage wiring that far to the valves. Or, okay, *three* :) choices split it up into two separate units which of course would be a doubling in price requiring two timer/controller units. The way I see it, I have two choices, either run about 100 extra feet of pipe from a four outlet manifold to those two, or run about 100 feet of wire to the valves from the controller. My problem is that I have two "zones" way over at one side of my property close to one faucet, with the other two quite close to my shop (where I'd intended putting the controller,) where there's another faucet. I'm trying to come up with a modest solution to semi-automate my vegetable and flower garden watering chores (dragging a hose and filling buckets gets old) this coming season.
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